A Guide to Historical Salem

A Guide to Historic Salem -- Volume 4, Number 3 -- Winter 1998-99

Elizabeth College Flourished Until 1921 Fire
Ghosts' Tell Salem Story
1819 Main Street Is Revisited
Fifty Year Old Mystery
Biggs Paintings of Local Scenes Exhibited
Holiday Homes Tour Covers East Hill

Elizabeth College Flourished Until 1921 Fire

By Amber Reinhardt

Roanoke College's Elizabeth Campus -- named for the all-female Elizabeth College that once occupied the site -- is the center of a zoning controversy today over proposals to develop it for business and industrial use. The East Hill property, rezoning opponents say, is the last remaining open land from Andrew Lewis' 18th century land-grant.

The property was part of the 625-acre tract that Lewis acquired in 1765 on the north side of the Roanoke River. It was on that tract -- although not the part that is now Elizabeth Campus -- that Lewis built his home, Richfield, from which he left to take command of troops in the Battle of Point Pleasant in 1774.

Because of the rezoning and development possibility, the Roanoke Valley Preservation Foundation has placed the property on its list of 11 significant places, buildings and natural features that, without help and attention, could disappear or be severely damaged in the coming years.

In the late 19th century, the land, or part of it, became part of the Burwell-Logan plantation known as "Sherwood," with stately oak trees and a red brick mansion; it was the home of Martha Digges Burwell Logan and James T. Logan and then of their son, Robert Logan, and the scene of many Salem social functions. The mansion remained standing until 1925 when it was demolished to make way for the buildings of the Lutheran Orphan Home.

But it was the short-lived all-female college that gave the property its name. The Salem girls' college originated when a Lutheran college at Marion failed economically early in this century, and a proposal was made to move it. A joint commission of the Virginia and Southwest Virginia Lutheran Synods met in Roanoke in 1910 to consider a new site. Marion, Radford, Christiansburg were all suggested sites. But Salem's argument as an already established educational center and a beautiful proposed location for the new women's college prevailed. On October 13, 1910, the board decided that the 30-acre hilltop site, complete with a grove of oak trees and a picturesque pond, would become the official location of the new college.

The choice of a name for the new college proved difficult. Numerous names were offered, and on February 23, 1911, the name was chosen: Oakmont College. It was changed two weeks later to Roanoke Women's College, with the Reverend John C. Perry, a Roanoke College alumnus, serving as the first president. That name, too, was not to last.

Building for the college began in April 1912, with opening scheduled in October. Although the building was not yet ready, the formal opening indeed was held October 2 -- with 42 students -- at College Lutheran Church, with friends, family members and supporters of the new college in attendance. Because of construction delays, temporary classes, housing and offices were located in the Belmont Hotel, on the Boulevard. Soon afterward, the building was ready, and the move completed.

Roanoke Women's College, with a strong musically oriented curriculum, soon earned a solid reputation.

In late May of 1915, an 1883 graduate of Roanoke College, Dr. Charles B. King, donated $10,000 to the college, with the understanding of the board of trustees that Roanoke Women's College and the Elizabeth College and Conservatory of Music at Charlotte, N.C., would be merged. The merged institution was to be re-named Elizabeth College. Dr. King, retiring president of the Charlotte institution, had grown attached to Salem during his college years. The expanded college was to receive significant conservatory's property, including library, musical, and laboratory equipment, along with the school's student and alumni rolls. Dr. King wished for his labors in education to continue, and after retiring from the presidency, wanted the reputation he had built to endure by the merger in Salem. In addition to the money he gave, Dr. King also offered to raise $40,000 for an endowment fund.

Elizabeth College opened in mid-September of 1915 with its first class sessions held in new buildings of North Carolina granite. With a faculty numbering fifty and the accreditation of a bachelor's degree, the all-female college prospered -- that is, until a fateful fire in December 1921.

When all of the students and faculty were away for the Christmas holidays, a fire raged through the main building early in the morning of December 21st. It attracted many citizens of Salem who watched with horror and disbelief as the building was destroyed.

Although the board of trustees decided against rebuilding because of costs, the Salem community opened their homes and academic institutions so the young women could finish the 1921-22 session.

Some of their classes were held at the all-male Roanoke College. Although a formerly forbidden territory, women were now allowed on campus. "The Elizabethan," Elizabeth College's yearbook, gave an interesting outlook on the females' perspective on taking classes with mixed company. "We are even admitted to the administration building, where we behold with awe and reverence the famous R.C. bulletin board&emdash;so long a subject of wonder and speculation in our midst. Mary Bradley is disappointed when this is the only announcement to be seen: 'Fellows, don't forget your laundry bills!'"

Five years after the fire, the site was given to the Lutheran Orphans Home of the South. This home, originally located where Andrew Lewis High School is today, provided the usual care for the children, as well as a Lutheran oriented religious instruction. In 1984 Roanoke College bought the land and turned it into the Elizabeth Campus that we know today. The City of Salem bought the land in 1986.

top

Ghosts' Tell Salem Story

If you noticed on the evening of Friday, October 30, that there were a lot of people in Salem who looked as if they had seen a ghost, it was because they had. That evening the Salem Museum hosted its first ever Ghost Walk through the historic East Hill Cemeteries. Participants-- about 350 in all-- got a chance to meet colorful characters from Salem's past and to learn of their lives.

In a format that was a first of its kind in this area, volunteers in period costumes stood on or near the graves of some well-known (and a few not-so-prominent) figures from Salem's olden days, and as the tours passed by, they described their life histories to eager listeners.

The participants met the ghosts (with actors' names in parentheses) of William C. Williams, builder of the Williams/Brown house (Joseph Rayburn); Dr. Benjamin Fox, early pastor of First Baptist and Shiloh Baptist Churches (Buck Simmons); Susan Price, post-Civil War Afro-American mother who lost two children in one year (Shana Harris); Jacob Frier, town sergeant of Salem in the early 1900's (Rob Laing); Susan Dingledine McCauley, a Civil War housewife (Ann Sampson and Linda Miller); Revolutionary War General Andrew Lewis (Joe LaRocco); Dr. David Bittle, founder of Roanoke College (Lon Savage); Judge W. W. Moffett, a trustee of the college after Bittle's death (Paul Howle); Knox Martin, aviation pioneer (Chris Severance); an unknown Confederate soldier (Greg Gallion); and Alfreda Peel, writer and folklorist (Lin Neill).

top

1819 Main Street Is Revisited
Corn Grew Where Courthouse Stands Today
1819 Walk Covered Only Four Blocks
Stroll Passed Tannery, 2 Streams, 3 Taverns

Editor's Note: William McCauley's History of Roanoke County, Salem, Roanoke City, Virginia, published in 1902, included an article entitled "A Glance at Salem in 1819." It described an imaginary walk through Salem in 1819 with a friend named Ira Jeter and compared the Salem of 1819 with the Salem of Mr. McCauley's day, 1902. We have excerpted McCauley's article below. In addition, just as McCauley did in 1902, we have inserted editorial comments to help modern readers compare the town of 1819 with the city of 1998. The comments are based on a recent re-tracing of the walk by Norwood "Woody" Middleton, author of "Salem, A Virginia Chronicle;" his wife Lucille, and Lon Savage, editor of Historic Salem. The three compared Mr. McCauley's article with 1806 and 1883 maps of Salem, as well as the current city map, and used their best judgment to identify how the town has changed since 1819. They by no means consider their judgments infallible. All editorial comments and additions are printed in italic type, the original article in Roman type.

In about 1875, Ira Jeter, a resident of Salem, then an old man, imparted to us his recollections of the houses and residents of Salem in the year 1819, about which time he came to live in the place.

In addition to the recollections of Mr. Jeter, we are indebted to other old citizens of Salem and vicinity who have passed away, and to Alexander White, Esq., still living [that is, he was still living in 1902], with unimpaired memory as to persons, places and incidents of years ago. We embody these recollections in an imaginative stroll through the village with Mr. Jeter as our companion and informant.

We will select some bright day in June, when the streets are dry, otherwise we may become buried on the way. It must be remembered that there were no pavements, no graded and macadamized streets at that early day.

By way of introducing our guide to our readers, let us first recall some of his experiences and impressions related by him, as we walk and talk by the way. He says that in the spring of 1819 he came to Salem on his way to New Orleans from Lynchburg, where he was then living. He had heard much of the beauty of the scenery around Salem, and of the prosperity of its business enterprises, but he was greatly disappointed upon his arrival here. What he saw fell far short of the gilded expectations created by the reports he had heard. The town consisted of a few plain buildings, mostly wooden, scattered along one street, the easternmost building being that which was afterwards known as Chapman's Hotel (burned down many years ago), and the last at the west end being the one which was until recently the residence of Dr. T. H. B. Dillard.

Editors: Chapman's Hotel was about where today we find the intersection of Main Street and Thompson Memorial Drive. The Dillard residence was on Main Street west of today's Lewis Avenue/Chestnut Street.

The street was in a miserable condition -- in many places almost impassable. In riding along at night he [Mr. Jeter] often guided his way by holding to the fence, and depending upon its friendly help in threading the dangerous mudholes. Frequently had he seen wagons upset by miry depths of what was then inappropriately termed the "Highway" through the town. The population, all told, amounted to only 150. When he arrived here he abandoned his intention of seeking his fortunes in the far South, and accepted the offer that Capt. William C. Bowyer, who was then selling goods in the house on the corner of Main and Union streets to employ him as salesman and clerk.

Editors: Captain Bowyer sold goods in a large building on the southwest corner of Main and Union. It was torn down in 1930. The Salem All Cloth Car Wash occupies the site today.

We will note our observations as we proceed up Main Street on the northern side, starting at the east end. The first building we see is a hotel, kept by Charles Mitchell, afterwards for many years under the management of William C. Williams, and, still later, of Col. H. H. Chapman, "Prince of Hotel-keepers." This building was burned down in 1866.

Editors: As indicated earlier, Chapman's Hotel was about in the middle of today's intersection of Thompson Memorial Drive and Main Street.

We will walk on up the gradual incline and see on our right fields of corn, the green blades glistening in the sun, and fields of wheat yellowing for the harvest,É

Editors: The corn and wheat stretched approximately from today's Roanoke County Courthouse, past the Confederate monument, Macado's, Olde Salem Barber and Styling Shop, and Old Salem Framing Gallery.

É but no house is seen until we reach the top of the hill and begin to descend. Here, close to the street, a plain wooden house stands on the site of a large brick building now [in 1902] occupied by Lee & Whitescarver as a grocery store and Frank W. Brown as a hardware store. This house was built by James Godwin. He was a native of Delaware and came to this place from the neighborhood of the Big Lick about the year 1802. His daughter Harriet, who became the wife of William Snyder, was the first child born in Salem, and was born in this house.

Editors: This house apparently stood about where today we find the Computer Store and East of Chicago Pizza Parlor (119 and 115 E. Main, respectively). A sign marking Brown Hardware is clearly visible today.

The next house, where now stands [in 1902] the residence and tinner shop of Drury C. Stover, was owned [in 1819] by James C. Huff. It was burned, and Mr. Huff put up the present brick building. This last mentioned building had the distinction of being the one in which the courts of the county were held until the erection of the Court House in 1841.

The 1819 Huff house probably stood about where Millie & Co. stands today at 109 E. Main.

A few rods further on is the Withers house, in which Charles and Alexander Anderson sold goods in 1826.

Editors: The Withers House at the northeast corner of Main and Market Streets was , where the old post office at 103 E. Main stands today.

We cross Market street, and where now [in both 1902 and 1998] stands the Presbyterian Church we see two wooden houses, the one occupied by Charles Dillard and the other by widow Mollie Sweet, "the cake woman." In the first mentioned the County Court was organized in 1838, it being used at that time by Benjamin Faris as a house of private entertainment.

The next building we pass is the one owned by the heirs of the late Charles M. Webber, long known as the residence and store house of John P. Kizer. We cast a glance through the open door and we see that goods are sold here, and we are informed that Thomas Shanks and David Shanks (father of Col. David C. Shanks) are the merchants.

Editors: The Kizer house lay where the Webber Building stands today, housing Nature's Outlet health foods store and Accents on Windows at 35 and 37 E. Main, respectively.

Crossing Whiteoak alley, we are saluted by the peculiar odor which comes from a tannery. It is owned and operated by Henry Snider, one of the first settlers in Salem, who had removed from the neighborhood of Amsterdam in Botetourt County. He was the first representative from this county in the State Legislature. His son, Charles L. Snyder, amassed a large fortune in the tannery business.

Editors: Whiteoak Alley today is a private drive between Nature's Outlet and Dusty Corner Bookstore at 27 and 33 E. Main St. The Snider tannery probably was about where the bookstore is.

We cross the little stream, which, starting from its source at the foot of Fort Lewis Mountain, goes singing merrily along through the woods and fields north of the town, skirting Water street (to which it gave its name), after pausing for a while to fill the vats of the tannery, and at last, being joined by its sister stream of the east end, running obliquely through the rich meadows of the Lewis farm, empties near the bluff into the river.

Editors: This stream is visible today behind City Hall north of Main. It runs beneath Main Street and Brooks-Byrd Pharmacy and surfaces behind the new Salem Police Station.

We see before us a tavern sign, on which is painted a globe. It swings in front of the building long known in more recent times as the residence of Charles L. Snyder, and until recently owned by Mrs. Clopton. Here "Mine Host" Joel Bott, presided as landlord of the Globe Tavern and entertained his guests with proverbial Virginia hospitality. He came from Eastern Virginia and was a gentleman of the old school, a class fast becoming extinct. His tavern was a model of neatness and order. We would like to stop awhile and hear the latest news from the East, gathered by the old gentleman from the last night's guest, a Tennessee merchant returning from the Eastern cities after "laying in" his stock of goods, but we must pass on.

Editors: The Globe Tavern apparently was where Salem Market Antiques stands today at the northwest corner of Broad and Main. Charles Snyder's name carries forward today in the Snyder Nursing Home. behind the antique store.

The next house, a small building with its gable end to the street, is the Post Office, with the words "Letter-Box" painted in large letters on the door. Here the few villagers are wont to gather as the mail coach rolls in, and receive the letters and newspapers handed out of the front window by the postmaster. .

Editors: The Post Office of 1819 was where today we find a building housing Elite Antiques and Consignments and Interiors & Tile at 17 and 21 W. Main, respectively.

Just beyond the Post Office is a small building rented and occupied by Polly Ledbetter, but owned by Nicholas Shootman, father of Mrs. Samuel Parrish and the late Mrs. Peter Magee.

Nicholas Shootman bought this lot of Susanna Cole. It was the first lot conveyed by James Simpson in his sale of town lots, and might therefore be termed the "corner stone" of the town of Salem.

Editors: This small building was next to Cherry Alley, which runs unmarked today on the parking lot immediately east of Wright Place Antique Mall.

On the corner across the alley we see the building now [in 1902] used by Judge Henry E. Blair as an office. Capt. David Sloan, of Back Creek, has informed us that the first store in Salem was kept in this house. On the same lot a few feet further on stands the house of William Blair. As we pause in front of this building Mr. Jeter informs us that it is the oldest in town and was built of logs cut off of the surrounding lot. Mr. Jeter resided in this house for many years, and after his death Judge Blair owned and lived in it.

Editors: The site today apparently is occupied by Wright Place Antique Mall and its parking lot.

A few rods further on we pass a house several yards back from the street. This house afterward became the home of the Logan family, which has been prominently identified with the history of Salem to the present time.

Editors: This house was between today's Wright Place Antique Mall and Valley Wireless and Allstate Insurance, at 39 and 41 W. Main, respectively.

A few steps brings us to the top of the elevation this side of Dry Branch. On our right, crowning the eminence, stands another brick building. We notice that several of the buildings in the west end are of brick, and more substantial in character and imposing in appearance than those we have passed. This house was built by a Mr. Jordan for a hotel, which was called the Bull's Eye Tavern, and, as we pass along, in 1819, was occupied by a Dr. Scott. As we stand on this elevated spot we pause awhile to admire the beautiful landscape. Looking south we see the rich bottoms covered with waving wheat and cornfields, Roanoke River glistening like burnished silver in the summer sun, and Twelve O'Clock Knob pointing its peak upward, a silent sentinel keeping constant watch over the charming valley. A few rods distant we see the Mermaid Tavern, with its quaint sign, and the great road running along in front.

Editors: The Bull's Eye Tavern was where today we find the First United Methodist Church at 124 W. Main. The Mermaid Tavern, where Andrew Jackson stayed, was in the vicinity of today's Burwell Street at Chestnut about a block south of Main. When you look south from the elevation today, atop the walled terrace in front of the Methodist church, you see the Rite Aid Pharmacy and Blue Ridge Copiers.

We cross Main street and, resuming our walk, return on the south side. The first house we pass is a large brick building on the southwestern corner of Main and Limestone streets. It is of a peculiar construction and seems to have been built for some special purpose. It is now (1902) with its unique style of architecture, its four tall chimneys rising from its gable ends, its time-worn appearance a notable object amidst the surrounding buildings of modern style.

Editors: This building at the corner of Main and Union (then also known as Limestone Street) is referred to above as the house where Mr. Jeter sold goods for Captain William C. Bowyer. It was torn down in 1930. The site is now occupied by the All Cloth Car Wash.

As it has an interesting history we will pause a while and learn from our companion its origin.

Soon after the war with Great Britain had closed, in 1815, an impulse was given to the growth of the town by a charter granted by the State Legislature to a company styled "The Roanoke Navigation Company." The act granting the charter was designed to improve the navigation of the Roanoke River by means of sluices and dams from Weldon, in North Carolina, to Salem. For a while there was considerable activity in business of every kind. It was Salem's first boom. Several business houses were erected, among them the building above mentioned. The lower rooms were intended for store rooms and the upper part for a dwelling. It was built by William Ross and William C. Bowyer, who started out with the intention of doing a large wholesale business, Ross being the resident partner and Bowyer the purchasing partner in Baltimore. It has for years [in 1902, that is] been the residence of the family of Dr. John H. Griffin, and is sometimes called "The Castle." The Salem Mills were built about the same time, and Union street, along which it was expected that other business houses would be erected, was to be a sort of Broadway through Salem to the head of navigation, near the Salem Mills.

It is interesting to note in this connection that a resolution was passed by the Legislature of Virginia, January 24, 1827, "authorizing the Board of Public Works to require the Public Engineer without interfering with previous engagements, to examine and survey the territory between the headwaters of Roanoke and New rivers, so as to ascertain the practicability of a water communication between the same and make report thereof to the said Board."

It is not probable that the survey was ever made. The interesting ceremony of the waters of the Gulf of Mexico clasping hands with those of the Atlantic Ocean across the Alleghanies never took place.

But to return to the Bowyer & Ross warehouse. As we see it in 1819, on that peaceful June morning, we perceive nothing of the building activity of a great commercial business house. It wears the drowsy aspect of a quiet village store. Our guide points it out as the place where he is wont to measure out calicoes and cotton cloths and weigh out coffee, sugar and tea to the village housewives.

Looking down Limestone, or Union, street, we see on the eastern side a log house, not far from the residence (in 1902) of Judge Wingfield Griffin. In this house, in 1826, a Major Gardner taught school. On the southeastern corner of Main and Union streets was another building used as a schoolhouse in 1826. Augustine Kennerly was the teacher. This house was torn down years ago, and the vacant site is included in Judge Griffin's lawn.

Editors: These two buildings apparently stood on the east side of Union between Main and the present house at 12 Union St. (the one-time home of Judge Wingfield Griffin, being restored) next to Olde Salem Furnishings.

The next house is the one owned by Mrs. Marks. It was, in 1826, occupied as a residence by the school-teacher, Augustine Kennerly.

Editors: This house presumably stood just east of today's Southwest Virginia Savings Bank, perhaps between it and the Heartland Bread Company.

Next comes the house owned by Mrs. James C. Deyerle, and occupied in 1819 by a Mr. Gwaltney.

Editors: This house was on Cherry Alley, about where O'Brien Meats market stands today.

The fine brick building just across Cherry alley, with the spacious yard in front, was built before 1826 by a Dr. Dawson, a brother-in-law of Nathaniel Burwell. It was long the residence of George W. Shanks.

Editors: First Union Bank now stands on the site.

The large frame building close to the street, with the long porch in front, and opposite the Globe Tavern, is occupied, as we pass along, in 1819, by a Mr. English. Here Dr. D. F. Bittle resided for a number of years.

Editors: This is in the area of West Salem Body Shop, Grandma's Attic and Ridenhour Music.

We cross Water street, and the next house we pass is the residence of Henry Snider, long known as the Mrs. Polly Anderson house, she being a daughter of Henry Snider.

Editors: Water Street is now South Broad Street. This site is now occupied by Brooks-Byrd Pharmacy, and probably extended to the sites of Virginia Showcase Antiques and the Valley Bank building under construction.

Crossing Whiteoak alley, we come to the weather-boarded house now [in 1902] owned by Mayor William T. Younger. In 1819, a Mr. Tennyson lived here. Afterward it was owned by Joseph Campbell, Salem's postmaster for many years before and during the war [the Civil War, of course].

Editors: This house stood about where the Salem Public Library and its parking lot are today. Whiteoak alley today would run alongside the western side of the building housing Valley Mattress and the Library Square Building at 16 and 18 East Main.

The next is the brick house until recently the residence of Mayor Younger. It was built by Jacob Stevens, who came from New London, in Bedford County, and settled in Salem in 1809. This house was owned and occupied for a number of years by Col. G. B. Board.

Editors: This is the Post House at 42 E. Main, built in the 1812-1820 period and still in use by St. Paul's Episcopal Church which bought it in 1952. It appears to be the only building cited in Mr. McCauley's article that unquestionably is standing in 1998.

A small frame house on the corner, torn down years ago, was built by George Hartman, grandfather of Nathaniel C. Hartman. For many years it was the residence of Mrs. Bowyer, a sister of Nathaniel Burwell and widow of Capt. William C. Bowyer, the merchant.

Editors: St. Paul's Episcopal Church stands there today.

A few steps brings us to Market street, so called because here in the middle of the street stood the Market House. Here the good people of old Salem supplied their larders, and indulged in the current town gossip of the day.

The house on the corner, after crossing Market street, was built by James Goodwin and was occupied in 1819 by a Dr. Farrow. Here resided, up to the time of his death, Bernard Pitzer, Esq., so well known to our older citizens [in 1902, that is]. In the latter years of his life, his well-known form seated on his front porch was a familiar sight to the passers-by, for whom he always had a friendly word of salutation. He was one of the few octogenarians of the town. In various public capacities he had been a prominent figure in Salem ever since he took up his residence here in 1825.

Editors: The Goodwin/Farrow house was at the southeast corner of Main and Market; the corner today is the site of the building at 100-102 W. Main which recently was sold.

As we ascend the hill we see before us a prominent landmark of the town, another house built by James Godwin, and one of the oldest buildings in the place. It seems to have been especially dedicated to AEsculapius, the god of medicine, for here resided for half a century Drs. Alexander, Wiley and Bruffey.

Editors: The Olde Newberry Building at 110 W. Main, housing the Salem Bank & Trust Operations Center and Radsue Texas Bar-B-Q, now stands on the site.

Just in front of us we see a tavern sign bearing on its face the gaily painted face of an Indian squaw. This is the "Indian Queen" tavern, and William Pennock is the landlord. Salem was not lacking in tavern accommodations. Her traveling guests need not sleep "three in one bed" unless they chose thereby to "dead-beat" the landlord and get their lodging for nothing.

Editors: The "Indian Queen" apparently stood in the general area now occupied by Lillies of the Field, Shaffer's Crossing, Corner Collectables, Blue Note Vintage Music and Countryside Classics on the south side of Main.

Chilton O. White, who lived and died in the Mermaid House, succeeded Pennock as landlord of the Indian Queen. After him came Aaron Barnes, who was one of the first representatives of the county in the State Legislature. The last landlord of this famous tavern was Thomas G. Huff. It was torn down "after the war."

We cross Church alley, so named because at its southern terminus stood the old Methodist Church. In recent times this was dubbed "Jockey alley," for here the traders in horseflesh were wont to congregate on public days. In the new era of Salem it has taken the more dignified name of "Colorado street."

Where "The Crawford" (until recently [in 1902] known as the "Duval House") now overtops the town, an humble dwelling stood in 1819, owned and occupied by old "Mother Irick" and her son-in-law, Thomas Johnson. There was a small house a short distance east of this building which was occupied by a Mr. Grady in 1816.

Editors: These two small houses stood about where today we find the parking lot at Colorado Street.

On the southwest corner of Walnut (now College) street, there stood, in 1819, a brick building built by Powell Zimmerman and then owned by Brandson Dunnington, a cabinetmaker. This building, owned in later years by David Guthrie, Jacob Keiser, William H. Renick and Josiah Simmons, was wonderfully transformed by Mr. Simmons into the present [in 1902] block of business houses.

Editors: This is where the Salem Bank & Trust building now stands. The gunsmith shop, mentioned immediately below, apparently shared the site.

Adjoining and west of the Dunnington house there was the gunsmith shop of Josiah Johnson and Joseph Riddlebarger. Alexander White has informed us that to test their guns they would shoot from their front doors at the mark in the field across the street.

Crossing Walnut (College) street and descending the hill, we pass two frame houses, one of which, occupied in 1819 by Mr. Ledbetter, stood on the site of the recent Vaughan property, and the other on the site of which the Plecker building now stands [in 1902]. Here lived Branson Dunnington.

Editors: The two frame houses were in the area of 300-306 W. Main, home to today's Claudia's Blues Cafe, the Salem Office Building, Coach B's Sports Bar & Grill, the US Marine Corps office and the law office of Harry F. Bosner, Jr.

On the southwest corner of Strawberry alley we see a small brick house. In it lived Berry Wright. In about 1850 Henry Frantz resided here. The present [1902] building was built and occupied for many years by J. M. Harlowe as a residence and store. It was owned for several years by the late Jacob B. Frier.

Editors: It is now the site of Mac and Bob's. Strawberry Alley today is marked "Strawberry Lane."

As we continue our walk we see a frame house on the west side of the branch several rods back from the street, which was occupied by a Mr. Plott. The present [1902] house built on this lot, immediately on the street, was long the home of George Stevens, the village blacksmith. Across the branch close to the street we see the low-roofed building with stuccoed walls. Here lives a tanner by the name of Vass. He has a small tannery on the branch in the rear of his dwelling.

Editors: The stream flows today beneath Main Street just east of Salem Office Supply. The frame house on the west side of the stream stood where today we find Salem Office Supply. The "low-roofed building with stuccoed walls" on the east side of the stream stood about where today we find the law offices of F. J. Whitescarver, T. R. Cox and S. E. Gardner.

We have reached the end of the town and the curtain drops upon the panoramic view of Salem as it was 80 years ago.

top

Fifty Year Old Mystery

Pictured here is local writer and folklorist Alfreda Peel (standing) during the production of her play "Three Mile Field." The play was performed at Hollins College and the Academy of Music in Roanoke, and starred Dorothy Stewart (seated) as Granny. Other actors included Sam Good and Lin Neill (who loaned us the picture), and the set was designed by John Will Creasy. Unfortunately, after Ms. Peel's death in 1953, all copies of "Three Mile Field" were recalled by her estate and have apparently disappeared. If anyone happens to have a copy or other information, please call the Salem Museum at 389-6760.

top

Biggs Paintings of Local Scenes Exhibited

Just in time for the holidays, the Salem Museum is commemorating the life and work of Salem's favorite artist.

A colorful new exhibit entitled "Walter Biggs: Artist and Gentleman," featuring many of Biggs' paintings and sketches of local scenes, opened at the Museum November 17. The exhibit includes many impressive paintings which are privately owned and therefore seldom seen by the public. Beautiful color prints of most of the paintings are also found in the Salem Museum 1999 Calendar now on sale for $13.60 (including tax) for non-members, $12.15 for members. The calendar features 19 of Biggs' works.

Walter Biggs was born in Elliston, VA on June 4, 1886. When he was twelve years old his family moved to Salem, which he considered his home. He enrolled in Virginia Polytechnic Institute at the age of sixteen and stayed for one year. He left school and, with a one way ticket his father gave him, went to New York City to study art.

Biggs studied at The Chase School (later called the New York School of Art) and was taught by William Chase and Robert Henri ("the unofficial leader of the ashcan school"). Making a living painting for galleries was very difficult, so Biggs chose to work as an illustrator. His illustrations appeared in all the major magazines of the time such as McCalls, Cosmopolitan, Ladies' Home Journal, and Vogue.

His paintings can be classified as genre impressionism marked by brilliant, loose brushwork and rich, complex coloration. His style is warm and lucid, showing the complete control of a true master.

Biggs had one-man and group art shows. He taught at the Art Students League and the Grand Central School of Art. He belonged to several art organizations like the American Watercolor Society, the Society of Illustrator's, the National Academy of Design, and the Salmagundi Club. Some of his awards included:

The Watercolor Society of America First Prize (twice), Gold Medal and Silver Medal; The National Academy of Design Gold Medal, The Advertisers' Association of America Gold Medal, The Academy of Design First Prize (twice), The Salmagundi Club (twenty prizes for watercolor and oil), The Society of Illustrator's Hall of Fame - inducted in 1963.

Known for his gentlemanly behavior, Biggs wore a shirt and tie even while painting. He was described as "a soft-spoken, typically Southern gentleman... both in air and demeanor, often looking...as if he stepped out of his own illustrations." He was married to and divorced form Mildred Armstrong, one of his models.

He returned to Salem to live in the 1950's, caring for his sister and invalid mother. He painted and sketched in the studio he built behind the family home on the Boulevard, and traveled often to New York City. In 1961, Roanoke College gave Biggs an honorary degree of Doctor of Fine Arts. Two years later, he closed his New York studio permanently. In his later years, he was artist-in-residence at Roanoke College and was called "First Gentleman of the Arts in Roanoke Valley."

Walter Biggs died in Salem in 1968 at the age of 82. Even then, when he was in the hospital, his friend put a pad and pencil in his hand and he sketched 24 hours before he died. In his will, Biggs gave paintings to his friends, but most of his estate was left to Roanoke College and Salem.

As an added bonus, the Museum exhibit also pays tribute to local artist Mary Hackman with a simultaneous showing of some of her works. Mrs. Hackman, who studied under Biggs, was a popular artist whose works grace the homes of many Salemites. Mrs. Hackman died this past August.

top

Holiday Homes Tour Covers East Hill

Five old homes on East Hill will be featured in this year's Holiday Homes Tour on Sunday afternoon, December 6, sponsored by the Salem Historical Society. The event, continued this year because of popular demand, will feature some new innovations, including van rides from house to house for those who prefer not to walk.

The tour includes a pair of side-by-side pre-Civil War homes in the 600-700 blocks of East Main Street, a pair of 1870s-1880s houses in the 700 block of Virginia Avenue, and the fifth house on Richfield Avenue in between.

The old McCauley House (608 East Main Street) is the closest to the Museum on the Tour. Believed to have been built between 1852 and 1854, the house has remained in one family almost since it was built and is now occupied by James and Dorothy Butler. Mrs. Butler's great-grandfather, Peter Shirey, purchased the original section of the house in 1856, and the home (with wings added later to each side) has remained in her family since then. It is named for William McCauley, a local historian, who married Shirey's daughter and lived in the home from after the Civil War until his death in 1908. Mrs. Butler, McCauley's granddaughter, was born in the home and has lived in it for most of her life.

The Butlers plan to show the parlor, library, dining room, front hall, and back hall-rooms filled with antiques that have been passed on by family members and friends. The parlor includes antique heirloom chairs and a colonial couch, all in dark woods with floral prints in rose and cream. Mrs. Butler also will display her collection of Imari plants and many vases from India. The library will showcase the Butler's collection of antique and modern books, including irreplaceable works of Dickens.

The dining room, located in the back of the house in what was originally a bedroom, is furnished in dark wood and carries on the timeless feeling that is present throughout the house. The halls feature an antelope horn and brass table and an antique book case while the back hall will spotlight a Persian rug. The walls proclaim the history of Salem with framed prints and an historic map that was discovered in the house's attic.

For the holiday decorations, the Butlers plan a ten-foot tree in the parlor, a seven-foot tree in the library, and a 4-foot tree in the back hall. Mrs. Butler also plans to display her collection of 1400 tree decorations, including some homemade and collectible. Holly and other greenery will greet visitors throughout the home.

Separated from the McCauley homeby a vacant lot is The Old Manse at 530 East Main Street., the only one of the five homes on the National Register of Historic Places. Built in 1847 by John Day, a blacksmith, it was sold in 1854 to the Salem Presbytarian Church as a home for its first full-time minister. It continued as a parsonage until 1939, when Dr. Leroy Gresham retired and built his own home (which is now the Roanoke College President's Home on Market Street). Two years later, Fielding and Jean M. Logan bought it and restored it. Their improvements include a garden terrace surrounded by a serpentine brick wall, designed by the late Stanley Abbott. After two other owners the home was purchased in 1977 by the current occupant, Mrs. Charlotte Griffith, and now serves as sewing store, "Stichin' Station," and a bed-and-breakfast. It was placed on the National Register in 1992.

Mrs. Griffith plans to show the living room, dining room, sitting room and kitchen, and the three-level patio surrounded by the serpentine brick wall will be visible through a window. Visitors will see a large Christmas tree in the living room, needlework on the wallls, a Pier mirror once owned by Ziegfield Folly girls, and antique furniture.

Fair View, at 228 Richfield Avenue, two blocks up the hill behind Main Street, was built in 1866-67 by John H. Palmer, a transplanted Northerner who married Columbia Ann Chapman, a resident at the time of historic Monterey and a descedant of Salem hostler Henry H. Chapman. The home passed to their daughter, Annie A. Palmer and from her to her husband, Dr. George A.L. Kolmer. After his death in 1954, the home was sold in 1964 to Mr. and Mrs. Harvey F. Bredlow. After Mr. Bredlow's death, Mrs. Bredlow sold it in 1992 to the present owners, Lon and Virginia Savage.

Made of dark brick in the I-form, it is decorated with Italianate brackets, ornate window lintels and elaborate carved woodwork around the porch and eaves. The home sits on a hill, atop a steep driveway, with views of Salem to the west and south. It has three interior chimneys, originally with six fireplaces, four of them working. It also features 10-foot ceilings, several eight-foot windows, and French doors onto a front porch that extends the width of the house. The property consists of two acres and a large barn/carriage house in the rear.

Mr. and Mrs. Savage plan to open the downstairs with considerable Christmas decorations but, because of family custom, feel the date is too early to put up the Christmas tree. Visitors will see the large dining room with fireplace, living room with southern view, library, garden room, and kitchen.

The house at 734 Virginia Avenue, believed to have built in 1885, has seen only three owners in its history. The Fisher family are thought to be the first owners of the home which features much of the original hardware and distinctive archetectural elements.

Visitors may first notice the front door, which is not only original to the house but still has all the hardware it was installed with. Also original to the house is the wainscotting and all the exterior trim. Other interesting features include the striking and still-used back staircase which was only for private family and servant use. Also worth a good look is the original marble faux marble fireplace, a feature which was hugely popular in the Victorian era. The fireplace is located in what was once the parlor, but now serves as the dining room. When the house was built, the master bedroom was to the right of the parlor and the dining room sat behind the parlor.

The current owners, Oliver and Frances White, have lived in the house for ten years and continue to renovate it. Originally the home featured fireplace and natural gas heaters in every room. When the Whites moved in, all of the heaters were gone, but the pipes remained. Presently, they are in the process of restoring both the porch and brick walkway.

Two houses up the hill is 752 Virginia Avenue which is a history lesson in itself. Built about 120 years ago, the house illustrates Victorian social ideas in its attention to ornamentation. The downstairs has elaborately detailed woodwork and fireplaces. The upstairs is, by contrast, less ornamented, since Victorian society saw no real need to spend money on a part of the home which very people would see. The Roses plan to have a Christmas tree and decorations for the Tour.

The home once served as a small farmwith about six acres around it, but most of the land was sold and cut into lots for other homes. During the 1930s, the home changed ownership five times, presumably reflecting the difficult economic times. It was not until 1939, when Mr. and Mrs James L. Richardson acquired the house, that ownership stabilized. The Richardsons lived there until 1981, raising five children in it. The current owners, Sharon and Bob Rose who moved here from Richmond, have lived in the home for five years.

top